Category Archives: Travel

Art Is Hard

We just have one thing to say to all of you hangers-on out there, living vicariously through us, our intrepid voyagers; Art Is Hard! This is hard work, what with all of the gallery-going-to, art-looking-at, admiring-comment-making, thoughtful-shrug-giving, donation-avoidance-scheming. There’s the endless-queuing, ticket-wrangling, schedule-management, compatriot-negotiation, stealth-cameraphone-operation, snivelling-kid-dodging. Aircraft, buses, water taxi, subway, funicular, skateboard, walking, whatever means of transport is required to get us before art so that we may systematically observe, appreciate, admire, dismiss and glom onto the art which you so desire us to tell you what to think about.

It is hard work, but we do not shrink from it. No, my good friend, we embrace the challenge and rise to it. Or, as is the case today, we ultimately cower and wither from it. Some days it’s just too hard!

Such it turned out to be today.

We started our day rather late. Neither X nor I slept well at all, and X was in bed so late that A, calling at the civilized (to some) hour of 9 said, “Wake her, she must get onto GMT!” To which X replied, “A has put the MEAN back in Greenwich Mean Time!” Indeed, a stern taskmaster is A.

Finally dragged ourselves from the flat near 1pm, and forged a path to the Design Museum for a gander at their new Paul Smith exhibit. Ooph! What a steaming hot load of design was Mr. Smith wielding!! There is a charming little recreation of his original shop stall, “3 x 3 square metres” says he, and it is a cramped little room to navigate, what with all of the too-too visitors holding their iPhones and Androids out at arm’s length to snap photos. How many fashion victims armed with cameraphones does it take to ruin an exhibit? That I’ll leave you to ponder.

Smith in his first stall

Smith in his first stall

Proceeding on from the reproduction of Smith’s original market stall is a recreation of his study, which is festooned with all of the bric-a-brac and detritus of a messy office (the sign of a healthy mind). From there we enter a reproduction of the cutting room, where all the striped designs Smith is so famed for come into being. A sound track of Bowie loops endlessly from one of the many vintage iMacs in the exhibit.

Smith's study

Smith’s study

Thankfully that’s the end of the recreations. They’re fine for what they are, but are more olde-timey anthropology-museumy than a design exhibit calls for. The next gallery displays the results of collaborations Smith has forged with others, such as Mini, the car brand, or John Lobb, the handmade British shoe label. This room brings design alive with result, while the earlier rooms brood with intent. Input: outcome.

One is struck, almost immediately, by the exhibit text; it is all written in the first person, as if by Smith himself (perhaps it is?). This is quite effective, as he is speaking to us as if we are aspiring designers, ourselves, and not just accolytes or interested observers. He pulls us into his passion for good design, and thus allows us to better appreciate the path he has taken, the decisions he has made, but also leaves us room to say, “Aye, but I’d do it a bit different.”

Smith inspiration wall

Smith inspiration wall

Other prominent parts of the exhibit are a large gallery whose walls are simply covered with images, few of them from Smith himself, with which he adorns all of his personal spaces, be they rooms at home, the office or even on the road. These are images which inspire and motivate him. Some are related to friends he has made over a lifetime, such as Patti Smith and David Bowie, Talking Heads, etc., others are famous artists such as Hockney or Warhol, and then there’s the tons of images sent to him, anonymously or not, unbidden, from people all over the world. This includes oil paintings large and small, photographs, and even childrens’ sketches.

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Of course there are the clothes, from across his career. Here’s some of my favourites:

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From there we repaired, via a long walk westward along the River Thames, to Tate Modern.

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We were too late for it to make sense to pony up the £15 each for both Paul Klee and Richard Hamilton exhibits (that’s £15 each per exhibit, or £60 total) as we would barely have had time to see them. So we decided to be happy with the permanent collection galleries and some special features in those.

There was a great hubbub by the railings over the Turbine Hall, a central and dramatic feature of the converted power plant, and saw that preparations were underway for a runway show (it’s Fashion Week here in London) for Top Shop, we think. There were loads of chairs each with a swag-bag, and glitter and lights and risers and such. A crowd was held back, by red velvet ropes, from entering, and were all gazing at their smart-phones. Smaller gaggles of fashionistas were milling in the hall, and were quite easy to pick out from the rest of the art-loving crowd, including the photographers with their telephoto lenses of obscene dimension hanging about their mid-sections, little stair step units to stand on, the better to capture the perfect runway shot.

We ambled through the galleries and enjoyed the Gerhard Richter “Artist Room,” featuring his “14 Panes of Glass – 2011” and also a gallery devoted to the “Cage Paintings,” six of his large dragged pieces from 2006. What a treat to see them all together in one room, where one can dissolve into them.

Cage (1) - (6) 2006 by Gerhard Richter

Cage (1) – (6) 2006 by Gerhard Richter

A pleasant feature of the Tate regime is that they will put up, next to the traditional item identifier plaques, an extra plaque with the thoughts of a volunteer curator, guide or docent. These folk tend to spend a lot of time with particular pieces in the collection, and their notes are accessible and often elegiac in nature. One wishes more museums offered these insights.

Also enjoyed during this visit were several other classics of the modern collection, such as Picasso and Braque, Bacon and Giacometti, etc. etc.

Okay then, enough fine art, we have a performance to attend — Opus, by Australian cirque group Circa and French musicians Debussy String Quartet. We marched further west along the Thames to Blackfriars bridge, north across the river, and then ducked into the tube station for the Circle Line eastbound, via Liverpool Street and Kings Cross, to Barbican. Once there we were able to flag down a slavic water carrier and slake our formidable thirsts with icy carafes of water and sloshing tumblers of vodka and gin (well, okay, they were Martini glasses). Tapas ensued, and once sated, we repaired to the theatre, still feeling weary from our travels, but somewhat deadened by the booze.

This show is hard to explain, but perhaps a brief excerpt from the programme (Yaron Lifshitz, of Circa) will help:

It began when the perceptive and courageous programmer Marc Cardonnel pulled me aside after a performance of one of our works and mentioned that our creations made him think of Shostakovich.

I replied that Shostakovich is the composer I hold most dear. It is his music that I’d like performed for my funeral… I longed to stage some, or even all, of the string quartets. And so this project was born.

So three of Shostakovich’s string quartets are herein deployed by a rather game quartet of viol players — who are, at times, moved about the stage as if chessmen by the cirque performers — and 14 cirque artists, 6 women and 8 men. These performers are stunning in their physique and their prowess. They mystify and amaze us with both the flexibility and strength of their bodies, their beauty and their guile. The choreography is inspired, if a little gymnastic at times (think Olympic floor exercises, but with 14 people all on the matt at once).

opus--2 opus

The aerials are illuminating and not too rarely seem death defying.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=pS1fZsCHzRI

We were more than once left gasping, and I often heard nearby audience members let out a sigh of relief or of shock. Oh, and did I mention these performers were, to a one, absolutely ripped? My god! The abs on one young man looked as if they were appliqués of clay, put there by Michaelangelo as if onto a David. I suggested to X that we wait by the stage door to see if we could meet one of these visions (Saturday night we encountered Saskia Portway — Hippolyta/Titania — taking a post-performance smoke out there) and she replied, “Having a smoke? I doubt it buster. Move along!”

Move along, indeed. My back ached from the hours of walking and standing, not to mention the sideways seating in theatre, but I felt I had no right to complain after what we’d just witnessed these brave and foolish souls perform.

So here’s to Brave And Foolish souls, because Art Is Hard!

Missing, Friends and Night Porters

Monday! What have we today? Juliet Stevenson is performing down the way at the Young Vic in Samuel Beckett’s Happy Days. X simply adores Ms Stevenson, and is crestfallen that there are no tickets for sale online. So we wander down the street to see if she can work her “Poor elderly me” routine on the box office staff. Alas, they prove immune to her valiant attempts. The run is sold out past the time we leave town.

Juliet Stevenson in Beckett's Happy Days

Juliet Stevenson in Beckett’s Happy Days

We then wander up Lower Marsh to Westminster Road to hop a bus to Tate Britain. We’re to meet A there, and artist met some years ago with whom Pawn has kept up. A is preparing to shoot a young couple’s portrait in the style of David Hockney’s Mr and Mrs Clark and Percy, and we made plans to meet her at the painting in the Tate’s new Walk Through British Art exhibit (gallery 1960), where it rests near a stunning Francis Bacon triptych and Brancusi and Moore and so much more.

Mr and Mrs Clark and Percy

Mr and Mrs Clark and Percy

Test photo

Test photo

A looks dashing with her stylish artist hairdo bundled off to the side in a ribbon, and her dangling camera bag. She forces us to pose before the painting, miming that we’re holding the main figures up in our arms, while she backs up to some delicate sculpture or other and dares the guards to restrain her from snapping photo after photo. If she shares any of those, we’ll post them here.

We proceeded to survey the history of British art from 1970 (the next gallery) back to 1930, then crossed over to 1540 and worked our way forward from there. A was quite determined that we do things in proper order, but then couldn’t wait to escape from the 1800s.

A takes photos, that's what she does

A takes photos, that’s what she does

A break for tea and we continued on with Chris Shaw and Moriyama: Before and After Night Porter. This is a brilliant exhibit of photographers Shaw and Daido Moriyama and their separate but similar (philosophically) work. Shaw showed three portfolio, including his suburban housing estate series, Sandy Hill Estate, the wonderful Life As A Night Porter and the new Weeds Of Wallasey. Moriymama’s contribution is more sober and painful. We loved it all.

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Our art-itites sated, we grabbed the tube up to Euston Square and a quick bite at Crown & Anchor before ducking into New Diorama Theatre for the last of two performances of a new work, Missing by (e)ngineer Theatre Collective.

Missing Poster

Missing Poster

This is a difficult work, and difficult to explain. This young company prides themselves on their deeply collaborative method — the members list themselves as “devisers” in the program — and have brought that to bear fully here. The subject is the title, and has to do with a statistic cited in a news report a few years back, that 275,000 people go missing each year in the UK. This is the population of Plymouth, and a truly daunting number. Now, of course, many if not most return to their homes, families, lives, still others are found dead — murdered, suicide, accident, natural death — but some are never heard from again. This work focuses on a select few cases and recreates, from interviews, the emotional roller-coaster the families and friends of the lost are subjected to.

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There is no way in a brief blog post I can convey the intensity of this wallow in pathos. We all were deeply moved and left positive feedback on their questionnaire. The sound was poor — the right speaker kept cutting in and out, and when working sounded blown — but as this seems to be a mid-process workshop phase, one can’t complain too much. I have high hopes for this work, and for the young company behind it.

Brick Lane Wanderings

Sunday no shows, but a leisurely wander through parts of East London including Spitalfield Market, Brick Lane and Commercial Street. We bought some cheap scarves and some snacks, including a brownie layered with salted caramel and dark chocolate, which should be illegal!

Here, then, are some snapshots from the day:

Grafitti along Commercial Street

Graffiti along Commercial Street

 

Graffiti along Commercial Street

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X gets into it with some graffiti

X gets into it with some graffiti

A wry comment from the citizenry

A wry comment from the citizenry

Found in a close off of White Chapel Road

Found in a close off of White Chapel Road

 

Street scene with Miss Chu, White Chapel Road

Street scene with Miss Chu, White Chapel Road

That’s all.  We watched the BAFTA awards (British Film) and had a night in.

Ciao!

A Midsummer Night’s Erotic Dream

Bottom indeed! Okay, wait, I’ll start with the highfalutin’ artistic stuff, then we can deal with the low-brow artistic stiffy.

I will say this; Tom Morris made me cry tonight. He brought tears to my eyes through his sheer mastery of beauty in the moment, the all important moment. Engineers speak of a moment of inertia, or an angular moment. This traces to the Latin word, mōmentum, meaning motion, cause of motion, influence, importance. Mōmentum shares a variant stem, mō, with movÄ“re, to move. To move. Pawn is of the opinion that this is an essential aspect to successful art, and when truly moved, emotion can’t be far behind. So I was brought to tears by beauty.

Titania and her arms

Titania and her arms

First, however, the prosaic. X and I arrived in London midday today, delayed a bit by ferocious winds and the continuing floods. Yes, the floods even effected us, as they have weakened tree roots, which when combined with the aforementioned winds, led to many downed trees on the tracks. Oh, and the bum £5 note from Flame, which sent the hack into conniptions of laughter, “There’ve been 14 generations of currency since this thing was printed,” he guffawed, as he handed it back to me, and X scrambled to dig out more, fresher, currency.

Once ensconced in our flat (Owen, the landlord, was a charmer), X repaired to bed for a nap, and I braved the elements, and the slings and arrows of outrageous banking, to stock up on the bare essentials, top-off our Oyster cards, and get some cash. That only took 3 hours!

But the crème-De-la-creme was tonight’s fare, so let’s not waste any more time getting to that. We were lucky enough to book a couple of ace seats — third row centre in stalls — for the final performance of Bristol Old Vic and Handspring Puppets’ production of Shakespeare’s oft produced classic, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, at Barbican Centre.

Reuniting director Tom Morris and Handspring for the first time since their now classic, War Horse, changed how people thought about puppetry (at least changed the minds of those who hadn’t already been paying attention). That production utilized enormous puppet horses (several of them) each with three operators, which breathed life into the title character, Joey a quarter horse pressed into military service, and his comrades. In this production, puppetry makes mortals into gods and imps into comical abstractions, among other things.

Saska Portway as Titania

Saska Portway as Titania

Saskia Portway as Hippolyta transforms into her goddess Titania with a large mask and an attentive array of “arms” (think Hindu deity) formed by ensemble with wooden planks, and David Ricardo Pearce as Theseus transforms into Oberon by dint of a similar mask and a single large, muscular arm with articulated hand. Add to this the brilliant abstraction of Puck from a hand basket, paint sprayer, mallet, handsaw and miscellaneous garden implements, and you’ve got the majority of the puppets. Oh, and Titania’s fairies, of course. That’s a scary bunch!

David Ricardo Pearce as Oberon

David Ricardo Pearce as Oberon

This is a long show, and it relishes both the bawdy humour of Shakespeare’s text, and the languorous pace — clocking in at just under 3 hours (with 1 interval). There is much to like here, but what especially charmed me was the fantastic ensemble work, the reaching back to Indo/Arryan roots for the god figures, and the way that whilst embracing the bawdy, vulgar humour, they’ve treated the gods with reverence and through them brought us a new appreciation for the power of beauty in our lives.

So, an abstract Puck, you ask? Yes, Puck is portrayed with Bunraku puppetry — three puppeteers; one for the torso and head and two for the limbs — but rather than the linked parts of a traditional Bunraku puppet, in this case all the parts are separate. The parts sometimes come together or fly apart, the puppet may swoop or careen about the stage, evoking animated characters so common in film fare these days, but made real by the puppet and the puppeteers. I cannot find an image of this to show you, but it certainly put me in mind of the work of Shane Walsh.

Shane Walsh

Shane Walsh

And the bawdy? Well, in the story, Bottom, the self-important I-can-do-it-all actor, is transformed into an ass (think donkey) and Oberon enacts a spell to put Titania in thrall to him. In the twisted mind of Handspring, however, this involves unpanting the actor who plays Bottom and strapping him into a carriage wherein his feet, with floppy socks, are the ears, his arms work cranks which, via elaborate machinery, move the realistic legs, and his buttocks, bared, are the brow of the ass, as it were. Don’t worry, no photos for this. The crowd loved this — shrieks and hilarity.

So what made me cry? It was this; the play as most of us know it ends when the Duke, Theseus, oversees the nuptials of Hermia to Lysander and Helena to Demetrius, but there follows an entire, quite bawdy entertainment by Bottom and his gang. Then, upon the stroke of midnight, Theseus and Hippolyta chase the newlyweds off to their bed chambers. Far upstage are the gods, Titania and Oberon, tall and striking wicker-people with the heads we saw earlier, but now with titanic bodies. As the lights on the stage dim, we become aware that the heads of these immobile statues are moving, they turn towards each other, and we cannot help but feel the tension and passion between them.

The young lovers creep onto the stage, and start to embrace and entwine.  The gods move towards us, arms spread and flexing, their essential nature revealed: within them the motive power comes from the actors behind each god’s human counterpart. Their power over their believers is made manifest. But it was that initial moment of movement, that first sign of life in the gods, which is what moved me. With any luck, you too will find beauty in art which will move you this way. It is transcendent.

A Valentine’s Day Wedding Dress

Happy Valentine’s Day – 2014 This afternoon finds Pawn in a pensive mood, somewhat contemplative, and rather content. Killing some time with friends R & L in a DC hotel, before the shuttle to Dulles International Airport comes along at 5:35. Rebecca Holderness premiers her latest directorial success, The Wedding Dress by Nelson Rodrigues, at Spooky Action Theatre, here in The District, in the basement stage of the oldest Universalist congregation in the country, on the corner of 16th & S NW.

Visual from Wedding Dress

Visual from Wedding Dress

Pawn & G were lucky enough to get to see the final dress/tech rehearsal on Wednesday night, and had this to say:

This is a beautiful and special piece of work, one of which they can be quite proud. The realization on stage of such a difficult piece of writing is itself an achievement, but to do so with such depth, soul, wit and humor is truly a gift. A gift from them, each, to us. Thanks! I don’t mean to be all drippy here, but really, this was a lovely, visually stunning, engaging, and moving experience. This being a dress, we have no program, and so cannot cite specific performers by name, but that’s hardly necessary here. The ensemble worked so well together, the blocking and stage pictures constantly brought us to see the whole. This was brilliant. Add to this wonderful ensemble the contributions of each of the technical creatives — video, audio, lighting, costumes and set — and I was left with one indelible reaction once it was over: It was orchestral. When the production staff asked me where it was set, I answered honestly, “In a dream.” I am not given to such praise lightly, but Holderness, et alia earned it. Surely as the cast inhabit this world over the next four weeks they will grow with it and in it and find ever more nuance not just in the words of the script, on the page, but in the interpretation of that difficult model of life for which Rodrigues has provided a scaffold in text, you have imbued with the dressing of truth and thus made real.

Rodrigues (1912-80), the most gifted of Brazilian playwrights, penned this piece, Vestido de Noiva in Portuguese, in 1943. It was hailed at the time as a extraordinary work with its use of vernacular dialogue and its explorations into the psychological states of the lead characters. He was a journalist and fabulist, whose joy of scandal, and scandal sheets, is reflected in this work. Holderness and her team play liberally with this motif, as teams of scribes and camera men regularly appear on scene to document what’s happening, or to cause it. They dangle at the ends of telephone umbilical cords linking them with copy desks back at their competing journals. This is a compelling component of the production, and leads us to weigh the rest of the action as we would any other scandal-sheet melieu.

An actor's feet on stage

The newsman is ready to strike

If you find yourself in our nation’s capitol city between now and March 9, 2014, please go take a look. You won’t regret it.

What’s next for Pawn you ask?  A red-eye from Dulles to Heathrow, and a fortnight in London, which side trips to Manchester and ???  Stay tuned!

On the shelf life of fortune

Last night I picked up a fortune cookie off my counter top. Every once in a while I order Chinese take away, but rarely do I eat the fortune cookies that same night, so they tend to accumulate until either I throw them away or get a hankering and eat them. Last night I had a hankering and, not wanting to tear into the last of my Girl Scout cookies, opted for a fortune cookie or two.

So I picked up this fortune cookie and opened it up. This is what it told me:
“You will travel far and wide, both for pleasure and business”

I almost dropped the fortune right then and there! I did drop the cookie, it skittered under the easy chair (not an unusual fate). I thought back to when I had last ordered Chinese food… Sure enough, it was just prior to my long spate of travel — to Baltimore and Washington, and then the long Mississippi River drive — I had run down my food supply since I was going to be gone for so long, so then I ordered some take away to make my final at-home dinner and leave some nosh for my house-sitter. I didn’t eat any of the fortune cookies, however… until last night.

So, what is the shelf life of fortune? Was my dessert prescient, or is this a case of hind-sight being 20/20?

My rational mind chooses the latter, but my romantic mind opts for the former. I’ve had a Martini, so we all know who wins that contest. 🙂

Words from the Northwest

Having a nice time here in Portlandia so far.  Got to bed at 9:00 PST last night, so dang tired after having got up at 4:00 CST to get to the plane.

Lunch was Pok Pok, a Thai (mostly) restaurant my brother recommended.  James Beard nominated even.  Had a fabulous bowl of Kuaytiaw Reus (Boat Noodles), which is a rich broth with stewed beef, poached beef, meatballs (little tiny, dense, things), spinach, chilies and bean sprouts, with noodles.  Yum!  Along side I had an order of their Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings, which my brother said were to die for, and he was right.  These are large wings, (willingly given up by their former, naturally raised owners) marinated in fish sauce and palm sugar, deep fried, and then tossed in caramelized Phu Quec fish sauce and garlic.  Wow!  Could only eat half the order, though.  So much food.

Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings - Pok Pok

Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings - Pok Pok

Then off to Portland Art Museum, which has a fairly rich collection.  Many donations from the likes of the Broad Foundation, Paul Allen Foundation, some Ayers family trusts and foundations, etc.  A lot of contemporary art, as well as the normal smattering of French schools, Impressionists, Abstract Expressionists, etc.

There was a lovely exhibition “In The Studio: Reflections on Artistic Life”, on display through May 19th.  This exhibit features multiple media representations of the artists life in his/her atelier, with models, materials, influences, mentors, gallerists, agents, etc.  All aspects of what actually goes in to being an artist.  I really loved all the Red Grooms pieces, of which there were many, including some of his 3D Lithography pieces.

Jackson in Action - Red Grooms, 1997

Jackson in Action - Red Grooms, 1997

Also, a very large collection of Asian arts.  My favorite was the soon-to-close exhibit on Noh, the ancient Japanese theatrical form of the Samurai.  This exhibit featured masks, costumes and painted depictions of Noh, both modern and historic.  A very nice 2 and a half hours of browsing after lunch.

Ayakashi (Vengeful Warrior) - Unknown Artist, Japan, 17th century

Ayakashi (Vengeful Warrior) - Unknown Artist, Japan, 17th century

I then went in search of a new power screwdriver, to replace the DeWalt 12V electric screwdriver which was confiscated by TSA agents.
No, really.  I didn’t know you couldn’t bring one in carry-on.  To be perfectly honest, I didn’t even really think about it.  When I packed, I tried to consciously pack for either checking or carrying on my bag.  When I saw how bad the weather was on the way to the airport, I decided to carry on, in case I ended up missing my (very tight) connecting flight in Denver.  After standing in the longest security line I’ve ever experienced (at MKE or anywhere) I was told I could either give up the screw driver or go back and check my bag.  Well, at that point I would have missed my flight (I ended up getting to the gate just as they made my boarding call) so I gave it up.

I started with a small, local, hardware store, but they didn’t have that model.  They sent me to the DeWalt store (yes, they have one here) or the “Home Despot”, but thanked me for trying their small store first.  I was headed to the DeWalt shop, but saw a Home Depot on the way, right next to my hotel, so stopped there, hopeful that they would still have one of last year’s models, as I still have the batteries, charger and other accessories of the lost tool, I wanted to get the same kind.

In the process, I ended up driving from NE (airport) to SW (Pok Pok) to Downtown (Art Museum) to N Central (Hardware) to NE (Hotel)  — pretty much making a circuit of the city, mostly on surface streets.  That was a treat.

Dinner took me to a nearby hotel which has a nice-enough restaurant attached, Shilo, as I didn’t want to drive after having a cocktail.  It’s not as though Portland has any want of bars, taverns, cocktail lounges, etc.  The demon alcohol lays comfortably here.  The prevailing impression I have of the city, based on what I’ve seen so far, is of a really big version of our own Riverwest community, with coops, coffee shops, bars, taverns, brewing clubs (coffee and beer), bicycle shops (and coops), skateboard and moto clubs and shops, etc.  Lots of bungalows and ranch houses, all very low and surrounded by verdure.

Anyhow, had some crab cakes, which were okay, along with Happy Hour discounted coconut shrimp and a Caesar salad.  That, along with a couple of Martinis made with the local The Rogue (hat tip to Sarah Pallin) sealed things nicely, for a manageable $42 + tip.

One observation is that it is sometimes hard to tell the upright citizenry from the large homeless population — the preferred dress is strikingly similar.  It’s not unusual to see someone in a nice establishment who you would swear you recently saw pan-handling on the street.  Maybe they are the same, who’s to say…

Words From The River – Part III

Had a nice little visit to Beale Street last night.  Went to Alfred’s on Beale for dinner and the Memphis Jazz Orchestra.  The former was so-so, the latter quite good.

The St. Louis art scene was sparse yesterday.  It being Sunday, almost everything was closed, save SLAM and CAMSTL.  CAMSTL, unfortunately, was entirely given over to the Jeremy Deller exhibit we saw in London last year.  Oh well, off I went to SLAM, located in the central Forest Park, along with the Zoo and several other cultural sites.  Quite a lovely park, if I do say.

Right off the bat I saw a piece I liked, an Anselm Keifer “Bookcase” piece:

Anselm Keifer

Anselm Keifer

The collection at SLAM is typical for regional art museums, with the exception of a large collection of Max Beckman, and other 20th century German artists, all from a bequest of Morton D. May, of May’s Department Stores.  The museum is currently getting a new addition, which will open in June of this year.  Unfortunately, that limited my visit somewhat.  One highlight, which will likely draw me back again, was “Stone Sea” by Andy Goldsworthy, which the museum commissioned last year.  The piece, a densely packed cacophony of stone arches is in a well between two galleries, but is currently visible only by peering down from the windows of the museum café.  Once the new galleries are open, this will be much easier to see.

Andy Goldsworthy - Stone Sea (2012)

Andy Goldsworthy - Stone Sea (2012)

Funny thing is that I only stumbled across this when I saw a large selection of Goldworthy’s books in the gift shop.  I quickly Googled and found that he had made the piece.  A helpful docent suggested the café viewing option.  Thanks!

Back on the road, I decided to bail on the Interstate and drove about an hour or two on US-61, the “Big River Road” down to Cape Gerardeau, MO.  That was a great choice!  I’ve grown weary of the sameness of the expressway view of the world, and really enjoyed the ups and downs, swerving and turning, slowing and stopping and small towns along the way of the old road.

The other day, on my way from Wichita to Jefferson City, I found myself driving right underneath a humongous bird swirl.  You know, one of those massive flocks of, typically, starlings, which swoop and flit as one — much like schools of fish in the ocean.  Well, back on the highway for the stretch through Arkansas, around mile marker 41 on I-55 in Arkansas, I was underneath two even bigger ones, combining into one!!

It was like the most sensual dance you have ever seen, this airborne pas de duex, as the two flocks seemed unsure (like tentative lovers) whether to combine or not.  Ef-ing spectacular!!  I cannot even begin to do justice to this in words, it was an almost religious experience.  Then, about 20 miles later, I was underneath yet another large flock.  These all happened around sunset, which I think is when the starlings take flight in search of their insect prey.

Anyhow, the drive to Memphis was nice.  I had a pleasant evening stroll through a mostly abandoned downtown, seeking something to read at dinner (having exhausted every word in my New Yorker).  I finally came across a Memphis Flyer box with a few issues in it, and over dinner immersed myself in that.  Good read.

Words From The River – Part II

Seen by the side of I35 in Iowa: “Exit 133 Ellsworth Radcliffe”  Sounds like a title and author to me.  What say?  A new nom de plume?

Seen by side of US-50, about 9 miles west of Sadalia, Missouri.  A roadside stop, typical size, but with a large electronic sign above, almost as large as the store-front itself.  On the sign, in sequence, was displayed: “3 Tacos $2.09” “Tax Returns $34.95” “4 Clean Bathrooms”.  My question; is the count on that last item automatically updated as conditions change?

I am now safely ensconced in St. Louis, MO, right next door to the convention center.  As in I look out my windows, ample as they are, and that it all I can see.  I just had dinner at Copia, a very over priced joint over on Washington St., a couple of blocks away.  Surf & Turf with a wee little fillet and some lobster tail, a Caesar salad and a couple of Uncle Val’s (!) Martinis came to $75 + tip.  Oh well, balanced against my McDonald’s fish sandwich (last night) and the gas station sandwich (lunch today), my per diem can handle the heavy lifting.

The hotel is an odd bit.  A Ramada Plaza Inn, it has some accoutrement, and completely lacks others.  Large room, with large bathroom, but only one trash bin.  A CRT television (when was the last time you saw one of those?) which is weird, but at least everything looks normal, unlike the stretched and squashed visages on most hotel room HDTV sets.  Ice bucket, but no liner.  No glasses at all, paper cups for everything.

No time for sight seeing in Wichita, KS or Jefferson City, MO, but that’s probably no great loss, right?  Hotel is rife with scholastic volleyball players — this being the site of the annual President’s Day Invitational Tournament, or something like that.  Hundreds of kids, all unbearably wholesome.  What could go wrong?